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ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ: നൈതികതയുടെ മണ്ണിളകുന്നിടം

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പതിനഞ്ച് നൂറ്റാണ്ടുകൾക്കു മുൻപ് സ്പെയിൻ മുതൽ മിഡിൽ ഈസ്റ്റ് വരെയുള്ള പ്രദേശങ്ങളെ കീഴടക്കിയ ബൈസന്റൈൻ ചക്രവർത്തി ജസ്റ്റിനിയൻ ഒന്നാമൻ കോൺസ്റ്റാന്റിനോപ്പോളിലെ വിഖ്യാത ദേവാലയം പുനർനിർമിക്കുവാൻ ഉത്തരവിട്ടു. കോൺസ്റ്റാന്റിനോപ്പിൾ ഭരണാധികാരിയായിരുന്ന കോൺസ്റ്റാന്റിയസ് രണ്ടാമനാണ്‌ ആദ്യമായി ഈ ദേവാലയം പണികഴിപ്പിച്ചത്. പ്രാചീന ലത്തീൻ വാസ്തുകലാശൈലിയിൽ നിർമ്മിച്ച ആ കെട്ടിടം അക്കാലത്തെ മികച്ച ദേവാലയങ്ങളിലൊന്നായിരുന്നു. പിന്നീടുണ്ടായ കലാപത്തിൽ അത് കത്തിനശിക്കുകയും, തിയോഡോഷ്യസ് രണ്ടാമൻ പുതുക്കിപണിയുകയും ചെയ്തുവെങ്കിലും, വീണ്ടും അതിനു നാശം സംഭവിച്ചു.

പ്രമുഖ ക്ഷേത്രഗണിതശാസ്‌ത്രജ്ഞരായ ഇസിഡോറും അന്തിമിയസുമാണ്‌ ഈ ബസിലിക്കയുടെ ശില്പികളായി തിരഞ്ഞെടുക്കപ്പെട്ടത്. ഗ്രീസിൽ നിന്നും ഈജിപ്റ്റിൽ നിന്നും സിറിയയിൽ നിന്നും മറ്റും ഇറക്കുമതി ചെയ്ത വിവിധ വർണങ്ങളിലുള്ള മാർബിൾ പാളികളും സ്വർണ്ണവും ഉപയോഗിച്ച് നിർമാണം പൂർത്തിയാക്കിയ ദേവാലയം ആദ്യമായി സന്ദർശിക്കാൻ എത്തിയ ജസ്റ്റിനിയൻ ചക്രവർത്തി ആശ്ചര്യാത്ഭുതത്തോടെ പറഞ്ഞ വാക്കുകൾ ഇങ്ങനെ: “സോളമൻ, ഞാൻ താങ്കളെ മറികടന്നിരിക്കുന്നു” (Solomon, I have outdone thee). ശില്പചാരുതിയിലെ അത്ഭുതങ്ങളിലൊന്നായ ഈ ദേവാലയത്തിനു ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ (Hagia Sophia) എന്ന് നാമകരണം ചെയ്യപ്പെട്ടു. ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ എന്നാൽ വിശുദ്ധ ജ്ഞാനം (Holy Wisdom) എന്നർത്ഥം.

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റജബ് ത്വയ്യിബ് എർദുഗാൻ

1453-ൽ മുഹമ്മദ് ദ കോൺകറർ (Muhammed the Conqueror) എന്നറിയപ്പെടുന്ന ഓട്ടമൻ സുൽത്താൻ മെഹ്മെത് രണ്ടാമൻ, കോൺസ്റ്റാന്റിനോപ്പിൾ പിടിച്ചടക്കിയതോടെ, ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ അദ്ദേഹത്തിന്റെ കീഴിലായി. മക്കക്കു നേരെ തിരിഞ്ഞിരിക്കുന്ന ഒരു മിഹ്രാബും, ഒരു പ്രാർത്ഥനാമണ്ഡപവും ചേർത്ത് അദ്ദേഹം ഈ പള്ളിയെ ഒരു മസ്ജിദ് ആക്കി മാറ്റി. 916 വർഷങ്ങൾ ഓർത്തഡോക്സ്‌ ക്രിസ്തീയ വിശ്വാസികളുടെയും, ശേഷം 481 വർഷം ഓട്ടോമൻ മുസ്‌ലിംകളുടെയും ആരാധനാലയമായി ‘അയ സോഫിയ’ എന്ന ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ. 1934 ൽ അൾട്രാ സെക്കുലർ ആയ കമാൽ അത്താതുർക്, തുർക്കിയിൽ നിന്ന് ഇസ്‌ലാമിന്റെ എല്ലാ ചിഹ്നങ്ങളും മായ്ക്കുന്നതിന്റെ ഭാഗമായി ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ മസ്ജിദ് പദവി എടുത്തു കളയുകയും, മ്യൂസിയമായ് പരിവർത്തിപ്പിക്കുകയുമാണുണ്ടായത്.

നിർമാണാനന്തരം ആയിരത്തി അഞ്ഞൂറ് വർഷങ്ങൾ പിന്നിടുമ്പോൾ, ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ വാർത്തകളിൽ നിറഞ്ഞു നിൽക്കുകയാണ്. ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ മുസ്‌ലിം ദേവാലയമായി പരിവർത്തിപ്പിക്കുന്നത് പാശ്ചാത്യ/ക്രിസ്തീയ ലോകത്ത് വേദനയും ദു:ഖവുമാണ് ഉളവാക്കിയതെങ്കിൽ, സമ്മിശ്ര പ്രതികരണമാണ് മുസ്‌ലിം ലോകത്തു നിന്നുണ്ടായിരിക്കുന്നത്. “മുഴുവൻ ക്രിസ്ത്യൻ നാഗരികതയ്ക്കും ഭീഷണി”എന്ന് റഷ്യൻ പാത്രിയാർക്കീസ് അഭിപ്രായപ്പെട്ടപ്പോൾ, പോപ്പ് ഫ്രാൻസിസ് ഈ സംഭവത്തെ “അത്യധികം വേദനാജനകമെന്നാണ്” പ്രതികരിച്ചത്. ക്രിസ്തുമതവിശ്വാസികൾക്കും മുസ്‌ലിംകൾക്കും അവകാശപ്പെട്ട ഒന്ന് മുസ്‌ലിംകളുടേത് മാത്രമാക്കുന്നതിലെ അനീതി ഒരു വിഭാഗം ചൂണ്ടിക്കാണിക്കുമ്പോൾ, മറുവിഭാഗം ഈയൊരു തീരുമാനം മൂലം തുർക്കി പ്രസിഡന്റ് റജബ് ത്വയ്യിബ് എർദുഗാനെ ഇസ്‌ലാമിന്റെ തന്നെ രക്ഷകനായി വാഴ്ത്തുകയാണ്. മൗലികമായി ക്രിസ്തീയ ദേവാലയമായിരുന്ന ഒന്ന് മുസ്‌ലിംകൾ പിടിച്ചടക്കി പള്ളിയായി മാറ്റുന്നതിന്റെ കാരണങ്ങൾ പരിശോധിക്കപ്പെടേണ്ടതാണ്.

hagia sophia virgin mary painting bylines.in
വിശുദ്ധ കന്യാമറിയത്തിന്റെ പെയിന്റിംഗ്, ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ

ഇസ്‌ലാം നീതിയുടെ ദർശനമാണ്. ഇസ്‌ലാമികാധ്യാപനങ്ങളിൽ ഇതര മതസ്ഥരുടെ ദേവാലയങ്ങളോടുള്ള സമീപനങ്ങൾ സുവ്യക്തവും സ്പഷ്ടവുമാണ്. ജനാധിപത്യത്തിന്റെ അടിസ്ഥാനശിലകളായി പിന്നീട് മാറിയ പ്രവാചകൻ മുഹമ്മദ് (സ)യുടെ മദീന ചാർട്ടർ ഇതര മതസ്ഥരോടുള്ള ഇസ്‌ലാമിന്റെ വിശാലസമീപനത്തിന്റെ ഉദാത്ത മാതൃകയാണ്. മദീനാ നിവാസികളായ യഹൂദര്ക്കും കൃസ്ത്യാനികൾക്കും തുല്യാവകാശങ്ങളും മതസ്വാതന്ത്ര്യവും ഉറപ്പുവരുത്തിയ ആദ്യത്തെ ഭരണഘടനയാണത്.

നജ്‌റാനിലെ ജനങ്ങളുമായി പ്രവാചകൻ മുഹമ്മദ് ഉണ്ടാക്കിയ കരാറിലും, അവരുടെ സമ്പത്തിന്റെയും ആരാധാനാലയങ്ങളുടെയും സംരക്ഷണം ഉറപ്പുനല്കുകയുണ്ടായി. ഇതേ മാതൃക തന്നെയാണ് ശേഷം വന്ന ഖലീഫമാരും പിന്തുടർന്നിരുന്നത്. രാജ്യാതിർത്തികൾ വികസിക്കുകയും, അറേബ്യക്കപ്പുറം ഇതര ഭൂപ്രദേശങ്ങൾ ഇസ്‌ലാമിന്റെ കീഴിൽ വന്നപ്പോഴും, ഈ നാടുകളിലെ ദേവാലയങ്ങൾ നശിപ്പിക്കാതിരിക്കാനും അന്യായമായി കൈയേറാതിരിക്കാനും സൈന്യങ്ങൾക്കു പ്രത്യേക നിർദ്ദേശങ്ങൾ നൽകിയിരുന്നു.

ഇല്യയിലെ (ജെറുസലം) ജനങ്ങൾക്ക് ഖലീഫ ഉമർ നൽകിയ വാഗ്ദാനവും സമ്പൂർണ്ണ മതസ്വാതന്ത്ര്യവും ജീവൻ, സ്വത്ത്, പള്ളികൾ, കുരിശുകൾ, മുഴുവൻ സമുദായത്തിന്റെയും സംരക്ഷണം എന്നിവ ഉറപ്പു നൽകുന്നതും ആയിരുന്നു . പള്ളികൾ കൈവശപ്പെടുത്താനോ തകർക്കാനോ കേടുപാടുകൾ വരുത്താനോ പാടുള്ളതല്ല എന്നും കരാറിൽ രേഖപ്പെടുത്തപ്പെട്ടു. ഖലീഫ ഉമർ പ്രാർത്ഥന നടത്തി എന്നതിന്റെ പേരിൽ പിൽക്കാല മുസ്‌ലിംകൾ കൈയ്യേറാൻ സാധ്യതയുണ്ടെന്ന് പറഞ്ഞു അദ്ദേഹം ക്രിസ്‌തീയ ദേവാലയത്തിൽ നമസ്കരിക്കാതെയിരുന്നു.

hagia sophia elif shafak bylines.in
തുര്‍ക്കി നോവലിസറ്റ് എലിഫ് ഷഫാക്കിന്റെ ട്വീറ്റ്

പ്രവാചകനും ആദ്യകാല ഖലീഫമാരും ഈ വിഷയത്തിൽ കാഴ്ചവെച്ച ഉല്‍കൃഷ്ടമായ മാതൃക പിന്നീട് വന്ന ഭരണാധികാരികൾ പിന്തുടരുന്നതിൽ ചിലപ്പോഴെങ്കിലും പാളിച്ചകൾ സംഭവിച്ചിരിക്കാം. ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ ക്രിസ്തുമതവിശ്വാസികളെ സംബന്ധിച്ചെടുത്തോളം വളരെ പ്രാധാന്യമുള്ള ആരാധനാലയമായിരുന്നു. ബൈസാന്റിയൻ ഭരണാധികാരികളുടെ കിരീടധാരണം ഈ പള്ളിയിൽ വച്ചായിരുന്നു നടന്നിരുന്നത് എന്നത് ഇതിന്റെ പ്രാധാന്യത്തന്റെ സൂചിപ്പിക്കുന്നു. ഓട്ടോമൻ സാമ്രാജ്യത്വാധിനിവേശത്തോടെ മുസ്‌ലിംകൾക്ക് കീഴിൽ വന്ന ഒരു ദേവാലയം വിലകൊടുത്ത് വാങ്ങുകയും മസ്ജിദ് ആയി മാറ്റുകയും ചെയ്യുക എന്നതിലെ നീതികേട്‌ ന്യായീകരിക്കാവതല്ല. ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ മുസ്‌ലിംകളുടേതായിരുന്നെങ്കിൽ മാത്രമേ പ്രസിഡണ്ട് എർദുഗാൻ ചെയ്തത് സാധൂകരിക്കാനുള്ള സാധ്യത നിലനിൽക്കുന്നുള്ളു.

യേശുവിന്റെയും മറ്റും രൂപങ്ങൾ മുദ്രണം ചെയ്ത ഒരു കെട്ടിടത്തിൽ മുസ്‌ലിംകൾക്ക് പ്രാർത്ഥന നിർവഹിക്കണമെങ്കിൽ ആ ചിത്രങ്ങൾ മായ്ക്കുകയോ മറക്കുകയോ ചെയ്യണ്ടി വരും. ഓട്ടോമൻ കാലത്തു അവ പ്ലാസ്റ്റർ ചെയ്തു മറക്കുകയാണുണ്ടായത്. ശേഷമത് മ്യൂസിയമാക്കിയപ്പോൾ , പ്ലാസ്റ്ററുകൾ അടർത്തി മാറ്റുകയും, നൂറ്റാണ്ടുകൾ പഴക്കമുള്ള അമൂല്യ ചിത്രങ്ങൾക്ക് കേടുപാടുകൾ സംഭവിക്കുകയും ചെയ്തു. വീണ്ടുമത് മറക്കുകയോ മായ്ക്കുകയോ ചെയ്യേണ്ടിവരിക എന്നതും നീതീകരിക്കാൻ സാധിക്കില്ല.

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തുര്‍ക്കിഷ് എഴുത്തുകാരൻ ഓർഹാൻ പാമൂക്ക്

ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ ഒരു പള്ളിയായി മാറുന്നത് മുസ്‌ലിംകൾക്ക് എന്ത് പ്രയോജനമാണ് ചെയ്യുക എന്നതും ചിന്തിക്കേണ്ടതുണ്ട്. യഹൂദർ ഡോം ഓഫ് റോക്ക് പള്ളിയെ ഒരു സിനഗോഗാക്കി മാറ്റുകയോ ഫലസ്തീനിലെ ഹൈഫ, ജാഫ, അക്ക , ജറുസലേം എന്നിവിടങ്ങളിലെ പള്ളികളെ ചർച്ചുകളാക്കി മാറ്റുകയോ ചെയ്യാൻ തീരുമാനിച്ചാൽ, മുസ്‌ലിം ലോകം അതിനോട് എങ്ങനെയാവും പ്രതികരിക്കുക? ഇസ്‌ലാമിന്റെ വിജയവും യശസ്സും പള്ളികൾ പിടിച്ചടക്കുന്നതിൽ കാണുകയും മഹത്തായ ഒരു ദർശനത്തെ കല്ലും കുമ്മായവും ചേർത്തുണ്ടാക്കുന്ന കെട്ടിടങ്ങളിലേക്കു ചുരുക്കുകയും ചെയ്യുന്ന വിവേകരഹിതമായ അതിവൈകാരികത അബദ്ധവും അപകടകരവുമാണ് എന്നതിൽ സംശയമില്ല. മാത്രമല്ല, വിവിധ സംസ്കാരങ്ങളുടെയും വിശ്വാസങ്ങളുടെയും ഹൃദയഭാഗത്ത് ഇസ്താംബുളിനുണ്ടായിരുന്ന സ്ഥാനത്തെ അടിവരയിടുന്ന ഒരു സാർവത്രിക പൈതൃകം നിലനിർത്താനുള്ള സാധ്യത ഹാഗിയ സോഫിയയുടെ രൂപാന്തരീകരണത്തോടെ ഇല്ലാതാവുകയാണ്.

മതവും ദേശീയതയും കൂടിച്ചേരുന്ന രാജ്യമാണ് തുർക്കി, അതിനാൽ എർദോഗൻ വിരുദ്ധ ക്യാമ്പിൽ പലരും സ്മാരകത്തിന്മേലുള്ള തുർക്കി പരമാധികാരത്തെ പിന്തുണയ്ക്കും. ഭരണ/എതിർപക്ഷങ്ങളും, തുർക്കി ജനതയും തുർക്കിയുടെ ഈ സവിശേഷാധികാരം ഉയർത്തിപ്പിടിക്കുന്നത് ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ ഒരു മ്യൂസിയമാണോ പള്ളിയാണോ എന്ന ചർച്ചയെ ഇല്ലാതാക്കുകയും, ഈ തീരുമാനം പൊതുജനവികാരം ഉൾക്കൊള്ളുന്ന ഒന്നായി മാറുകയും ചെയ്യും. അപ്പോഴും, ഇതിലെ നൈതികത ചോദ്യചിഹ്നമായി അവശേഷിക്കുന്നു എന്നതാണ് വസ്തുത.

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ഹാഗിയ സോഫിയയിലെ ഒരു ചുമർചിത്രം

ഒരുപാട് വൻഭൂകമ്പങ്ങളെയും, മറ്റു പ്രകൃതിദുരന്തങ്ങളെയും, സാമ്രാജ്യത്വ അധിനിവേശങ്ങളെയും ഉദ്ധാന പതനങ്ങളെയും അതിജീവിച്ചു മനുഷ്യചരിത്രത്തിലെ തന്നെ ഏറ്റവും പ്രൗഢോജ്വലമായ നിർമിതികളിൽ ഒന്നായ ഹഗിയ സോഫിയ. മാനവികതയുടെ സ്നേഹത്തന്റെയും മതസൗഹാർദ്ധത്തിന്റെയും പ്രതീകമായി എന്നും തലയുയർത്തി നിൽക്കേണ്ടുന്ന ഒന്നാണത്. ബൈസന്റൈൻ വാസ്തുകലയുടെ നിസ്തുല മാതൃകയിൽ പണിത്, സ്വർണ്ണം കൊണ്ടുള്ള മൊസൈക്കിൽ യേശുവിന്റെയും മേരിയുടെയും ഇതര ഭരണാധികാരികളുടെയും ഛായാചിത്രങ്ങളോടൊപ്പം തന്നെ ഖുർആനിക സൂക്തങ്ങളുടെ കാലിഗ്രഫിയും ഓട്ടോമൻ കലാവൈഭവവും സമന്വയിക്കപ്പെട്ടിട്ടുള്ള വർണ്ണാഭമായ ഒരു ആഭരണപ്പെട്ടി പോലെ മനോഹരമായ ഈ കെട്ടിടം, വിലകുറഞ്ഞ രാഷ്ട്രീയ ലക്ഷ്യങ്ങൾക്കായി ഉപയോഗപ്പെടുത്തി ഏതെങ്കിലും ഒരു വിഭാഗത്തിന്റെ മാത്രമാക്കി മാറ്റുക എന്നത് നീതിയല്ല.

aziz.shabna@gmail.com

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